For all intents and purposes I feel it would be fair to
generalize this one time and say that many of us have an ethnic food, outside
our own backgrounds, that we call our favorites. Every semester I tell my
students to branch out of their pigeonholed suburban cultures and involve themselves
into a restaurant they wouldn’t normally find themselves sitting down at. My
forefinger held out, I scold them when I say “If you journey to a place such as
New Orleans, and you eat at Burger King instead of having a Po Boy or crawfish,
shame on you!” Instruction is a much more livable profession if you have a
healthy dose of sarcasm.
So I ask you all, what ethnic food
pisses you off? What restaurant, small business or pre-packaged corporate
chain, have to been to that has ruined, for example, simple tacos or regular
ole’ American food? For me, I am reaching into half of my heritage on this one
and calling out all fake, glitz and glamor Italian restaurants. That’s right,
you – with your Mario Bros cliché names and your lazy-ass need to soak a
bleached pound of fettuccine in enough white sauce to reduce five years off of a
life. I have somewhat of a similar feeling to Anglo-Irish foods, but nothing
replaces my contempt for anything from the McDonalds of Italian food, the Olive
Garden. They are one Roberto Bennini as a waiter cliché away from…well, let’s
not get too cruel. Buca di Beppo is not much better. If you only knew that most Europeans do not gorge themselves like we do, myself being guilty of this as well from time to time. These aforementioned places fall into the line of
European ethnic chains that buy from warehouses full of items for their décor that
most American’s think are unique to Italy. Many Irish pubs that are set-up
around the world get bar designs and items from a group called the Irish Pub Company.
What is ethnically true? What is
accurate to actual palates of most Italians, Mexicans, or whoever? Ethnic
trueness is known by those who are either from that long standing heritage or
have immersed themselves into the profession of cooking. These ethnic plates
are likely filled with items that most American’s couldn’t stomach eating such
as full Spanish prawns (the spicy juice comes out when you suck the head) or
perhaps a deceptively simple dish of well-prepared prosciutto and garlic rubbed
toasted bread. I use the rule of thumb similar to purchasing any item– if the
food and ‘cultural experience’ advertises itself as too good to be true,
chances are you wind up with a sack of a pre-packaged meal that cannot be
altered.
This new chain of Tilted Kilt
restaurants is plainly in the same vein of full on mental instability. The
commercial on T.V of three bombshell waitresses that are barely clad in kilts
and bras delivering beer to three guys who look like they are going to bust a nut
at the table for probably seeing boobs for the first time is pathetic.
Honestly, all kidding aside, these highly pre-packaged, highly salted chain
restaurant meals are fueling a diabetes, heart disease and obesity increase
that is and has been killing America. Worst of all, they are destroying any
sort of confidence and comfort one can have at establishing a local, small-business
restaurant, no matter the cultural origin. One of the most depressing sights in my mind
is driving along a long avenue and seeing the endless neon signs of fast food
and ethnically backwards chain restaurants.
If you like to stop by these
places for a family meal or drinks with friends, enjoy yourself. Just know that
your business is fueling a cliché. Good lord, I am beginning to sound like a
cranky socio-political nut; time to leave it to you. For my two cents – save your denaros
and search for that place that actually gives a damn what they are serving you.
I suppose I have a slightly different opinion to offer here. I am a huge lover of authentic restaurants- few things make me happier than enjoying a good meal that includes all of the true flavors and authenticity of the region.
ReplyDeleteAt the same time, I have a difficult time faulting restaurants for fusing flavors to make them appealing to a different culture. For example, while Olive Garden is a clear bastardization of of Italian food, their Zuppa Toscana is my favorite soup. It may not be authentic, but I have craved this soup since I moved to Hawaii. Similarly, I live in a place where I can easily obtain some of the most authentic Chinese food in the world. While I enjoy it greatly, I can't help but miss the Americanized crab rangoons that were sold in the Illinois suburbs. While they may not be authentic, the taste resonated with me.
I suppose I don't mind a cliche, once in a while, if it tastes good to me. Being Polish, I have eaten at Chicago restaurants that did not make meals in a genuinely "authentic" way. But you know what? Some of their versions were GOOD. Perhaps not "Polish", necessarily, but the influence mixed with an American interpretation did appeal to my taste buds, despite the fact that the foods weren't prepared in the manner I was used to.
That said, I do understand the frustration of a restaurant marketing itself as serving food from a certain region, and delivering a version that does not represent the true flavors. It is often a disappointment. I guess I just view food as an art, in which mixed media is always welcome.
(This is, by the way, an opinion of someone who eats at Chili's a couple times a year, not because I haven't had amazing authentic Mexican food, but because their "southwestern eggrolls" are addictive- you can absolutely take my post with a grain of salt.)
I agree, you do make some decent points. As I said, there are some appealing factors to these places. Hence if there wasn't, no foot traffic would grace their entrance. Nick and I spoke of this shift though since we've been in high school. He said that "Fridays use to be the place where some chicken fingers and food was good when we were teens...but they have changed." Maybe we changed as well and just demanded a little better.
ReplyDeleteBy the way, i almost wrote a reference to you in the blog about peirogis. Ally and I had some at a 'authentic' polish market - they tasted like rubber and bad cheese.
At least give me some good crab rangoons. I hate it when they are either overly fried or are simply just melty cream cheese with no flavor.
Oooh, I'll have to find the blog about pierogis. They can be the most amazing food in the world, or they can be awfully flavorless. I have had both, not only here in America, but also in Poland. I think that taste varies wildly- you can't get more authentic than having pierogi, a traditional Polish dish, in Poland- yet, I have had the best pierogis of my life there, as well as the worst. I love to make my own, but I do admit to making them with a twist- I love to incorporate bacon into the filling, which is almost never done in Poland.
ReplyDeleteReally enjoying your blog, Steve! I look forward to reading more.