Two foodie
minds can think alike when planning out a new restaurant adventure. Thankfully
in early March this came true again with my friend Nick and the dinner I had
promised him for his birthday. My plan back in January was to treat him to the
now new age of Chef Paul Kahan west loop culinary excellence with Blackbird. Then I reminded myself on
March 1st of the financial obligations of everything from medical
bills to my brother’s bachelor party, later wedding and the 100 to 130 I would
likely spend at Blackbird flew away.
Nick has
become an enthusiast of smoking meats. Perhaps the tastes from his time in the
boggy south whet his appetites, perhaps as well because Nick is a very inventive
home cook, often using his or his parent’s smokers for holidays. I swear if my
novel never sells I would encourage my friends and family to go in on what
would likely but a fun but ultimately a disastrous restaurant venture in micro
brewing and culinary desires. Pipe dreams aside, Nick and I ventured down to Smoque
BBQ in Chicago on 3800 N. Pulaski, just off of the tenacious bumper-to-bumper
rush hour traffic on route 94.
Walking in,
we were greeted not only by the several helping hands of assistance staff
(between wait staff, bus boys and runners) but also the delectable smell of
smoked meats. A giant signed poster of Guy Fieri from Diners, Drive-ins and Dives on the wall urged us to go forward into
a seven to fifteen people deep line that didn’t die down until we left.
“Should we
go all out?” I asked Nick, pointing to the massive menu chalk board. “Whatever
you think is best, I trust your awesomeness Big G,” Nick said, rubbing his
hands together, anticipating. I used the rule of thumb there as I did at Real
Urban BBQ – one dish for each of us and then one other main dish for us to
share. The side menu was limited to about seven items, making us wonder why
there weren’t more options. I would soon find out the sides, contrary to main
course of animals that died for good causes, would prove that quality was
better than quantity. I ordered pulled pork and let Nick pick out the sides –
macaroni and cheese and hearty brisket chili.
“Sliced
brisket with sides of BBQ beans and cornbread,” I told the pint sized young
woman behind the counter. “We were thinking about splitting ribs…maybe a full
slab?”
“We have an
off the menu special on those…” the cashier said.
Off the menu
special you say? Please continue!
“You can do
the special half slab of St Louis style and the half slab of the Chicago baby
back.”
The two of
us nodding like two men with bobble heads on, we took our seats. Smoque BBQ features family style dining
where you will be placed in open spots amongst total strangers. Don’t fear the opportunity
to interact. The group next to us joined our conversation about food hot spots
in Chicago after offering us some of their French fries which we dutifully
dipped in the two sauces – Memphis style with spice and a loose Carolina style
with a vinegar snap. The place is also a BYO, which many patrons took advantage
of with a shared six pack.
One of many
men behind the counter shouted our number above the din chatter and small
kitchen behind. I had to make two runs from there to our table with what we ordered.
The pulled pork, sans bun, was quite good as I noticed the hints of vinegar,
black pepper in moist meat. Their signature sliced brisket was melty and soft,
so much so we didn’t need to use a knife. I named the BBQ beans, complete with
tiny chunks of brisket, a “bowl of smoke” with it’s almost effervescent smoky
flavor that was delicious and so rich I swore we could blow smoke rings after a
few bites. The other sides were great compliments to meal as well. I particularly
appreciated the coleslaw, which I am not a fan of. The slaw, prepared quite
simply with black pepper and vinegar instead of mayonnaise, refreshed the
palate.
The main
event was the ribs, something that had left me feeling somewhat unsatisfied
when I went to Real Urban BBQ. I hold this truth to be self-evident that Smoque’s
baby back ribs with and without sauce are the best damn ribs I have ever had –
period! All my senses needed was one bite and I was hooked by the multitude of
spices on top of the beautiful smoke ring, some of which I could tell was
various peppers, salt, and coriander. The St Louis ribs, with all of their
imparted flavors and artful char, were slightly meatier and just as fall of the
bone quality as the baby back. You can see below how happy of a lad Nick was - nearly in tears with appreciation.
When I wasn’t using one of six napkins or my lips to clean off the flavors, I
was in the same company of satisfaction.
Needless to
say we left with our stomachs feeling like those old toys, wee wobbles, bobbing
here and there in what could have turned into a meat coma. I couldn’t resist
buying two, 18 ounce bottles of their affordable spicy Memphis style barbeque
sauce. A gift for my Dad but selfishly, one for my future grill on my patio!
The
difference between Real Urban BBQ and Smoque is in a few items, where one place
does them better than the other. Truthfully, don’t waste your time comparing
which one is better – they are both good. Sometimes you just have to appreciate
a good plate of barbeque that will not remain on your plates for long once your
order has been called.
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