A Diablo Start-up in Evanston

Opportunity is that universal truth that many humans wish was equal to all but limited in execution. The same goes for a start-up restaurant that in the first weeks of its door’s opening is proving whether or not they will be the anomaly to 70%-80% failure rate of new businesses. Competition is the name of the game, be it other fellow small businesses, corporate giants or improper execution of marketing the name. I hope none of those unfortunate things happen to a new Mexican restaurant in Evanston named Taco Diablo at 1029 Davis Street.

When my buddy Nick and I entered Taco Diablo, there was not a sign or awning to indicate its presence. There nothing more than a small placard in the front window of two kiddy crimson devils with pitchforks that we didn’t notice until we left. I remembered the place from a show another friend of mine performed at what the place used to be, a poorly run bar. The décor of Taco Diablo will strike you, making you take pause at how the owners make you want to find similar exotic accessories for your home. A medieval-style chandelier hangs in the front. Over the bar are Arabian inspired tin lights that illuminate the bright in color and character Neo-Mexican art of devils, luchadores above fine selections of whiskey and tequilas. Distressed wood ties the restaurant together as it is placed into the bar, the sandpaper smoothed booths and the wall of misshapen wooden timbers adjacent to the front window. 

Nick and I went with taco platters, each attention-to-detail taco prepared for a price of 3.50 to 4 dollars a piece – a steal in our opinion, considering the quality within. A deal for $11 is included to get three types of tacos from their ten unique choices. We both ordered crunchy chicken tacos (fried), beef cheek tacos, and duck confit and chorizo tacos. My belly, still not satisfied as I had previously visited the gym and worked myself into an appetite, went for one order of the delectable adobo mahi-mahi tacos with a orange salsa. Each was a pleasure, the chicken perfect with lime marinated onions, the beef cheek though light on the salt was still tender as carnitas. I’ve had better duck confit and chorizo tacos that packed more flavor. 

If you want to impress patrons such as my friend and I with your start-up restaurant, boast the originality of your products served. By inquiring, we found the tomatillo, spicy red salsa, pickled onions and crème were all made in house. Those touches give a restaurant its own character, the same way a smoke house uses its own charcoal or dry rub. To my pleasure, I revisited my time overseas by drinking a bottle of Mexican Coca-Cola which contains cane sugar and not what all American Colas contain – syrupy, gelatinous corn-starch, thanks to subsidized industries and frankenfoods. Don’t get me started when someone says “Your body can’t tell the difference – sugar is sugar.” Bullshit – my mouth can taste the difference as well as my ever-likely to fail into diabetes liver if I drink “According to the National Soft Drink Association (NSDA), consumption of soft drinks is now over 600 12-ounce servings (12 oz.) per person per year.” Enjoy the glass bottle of cola, don’t ask where the fountain drinks are to consistently refill. If you are not a cola fan, do what Nick did an order another house made specialty, iced tea. A tiny squirt of honey from the table and you are on your way to a series of delightful sips, those iced cups jangling against the glass. 

When we entered Taco Diablo close to 6pm, there were few people inside. A line was ready to collect out the door once we left, with every table occupied. The co-owner came to our table at the end of our meal to help bus, who she said the place is owned and operated with her husband since they “opened three weeks prior.” Though run-down, as her face was beginning to truly realize the sacrifices of owning a restaurant, a smile carried through with graciousness as we spoke of our affinity for those personal touches Taco Diablo gave, from the salsa to the décor. I wish for Taco Diablo to have that opportunity to become stable, have good word of mouth in a very competitive restaurant town of Evanston, and above all – continue to be inventive and let their small business voice carry.